Soooooo Tired

Every year it gets more difficult and yet I still continue to start, and often finish, epic trips with no where near enough sleep.  The trip to the Everglades was no exception.  We planned well in advance that to maximize time on the water, we should leave Thursday afternoon as soon as school let out for break.  Somehow, I usually end up driving on these long trips.  So when my driving shift came up around 1:30 at night and I hadn't really slept on the way down yet, I figured I might as well get comfortable and settle in for the long haul. 

Hours and many miles later, I was cruising through the gradually awakening world southwest of Orlando.  We had dropped a friend off there, and while it was slightly out of the way, we made it through early enough that it didn't really slow us down too much.  The stress began to build as the sun climbed higher and higher though. 

The Everglades National Park has a thoroughly ridiculous policy that you can only reserve a campsite in person up to 24 hours in advance of your trip, and furthermore that you must reserve any site you plan on using.  Thus, it is always a distinct possibility for visitors to the Park to arrive only to learn that your itinerary will NOT work.  By the time we arrived at the Ranger Station, I was convinced that our trip would probably be in vain and we would not get our site.  This was due to two reasons: first, because I was exhausted and probably not viewing the glass as half full, having been awake since the previous morning around 6:00 am, and secondly because we arrived around 1:30 in the afternoon.  Most of the time this would be far too late during peak paddling season. 

Incredibly, despite our worries, our whole itinerary was totally open.  The list was as follows: first night at Lopez River, second night at Darwin's Place, third and fourth nights at Lostman's Five, fifth night at New Turkey Key, and sixth night at Rabbit Key.  The plan enabled us to experience a little bit of everything, or at least nearly everything, that the Everglades have to offer from remote backcountry bays to mangrove tunnels on Charlie Creek to big water paddling on large bays at the edge of the Gulf of Mexico and camping on beaches. 

I was so tired that I really didn't even think of getting out my camera until sometime during the second day.  Suddenly it occured to me that it might be nice to document the trip and I started shooting as often as conditions allowed.  My first shots were of the wide open bays on the upper end of the Wilderness Waterway as we paddled towards Darwin's Place campsite.  Mangrove is on every horizon here. 

The next morning I remembered to shoot a few pictures of camp as well as the scenery around it.  After a couple nights of good sleep, I was feeling much better and ready to really start enjoying the trip!

First Things First

While reviewing and reminiscing about the Everglades is high on my to do list, I am also very interested in the status of the local fisheries here in Tennessee.  Lots of rain mean the tailwaters are all pushing lots of water and although I love heading to the Smokies, I didn't have a whole day to get out and explore.  In the end I settled for a couple of hours at a local farm pond as a last opportunity for fun before break was over. 

This spot gets more than its fair share of pressure but the fishing for bluegill, crappie, and bass is still pretty decent.  This time of year can be iffy though as water temperatures fluctuate, sometimes drastically, and the fish may or may not be on the feed. 

When I arrived I noticed one thing right off: the water was much clearer than I normally would expect at this lake.  Not in just a nice clean water sense either, but in that icy clearness that cold water takes on.  Thinking my efforts might be in vain, I still went ahead and tied on a #14 beadhead Simi Seal Leech.  As long as I was there I was going to fish. 

Working along the shoreline in an shallower area that normally holds some nice bluegill, I settled into my normal routine of casting followed by a very slow twitch retrieve.  Several casts produced nothing and it seemed my fears were on the verge of being confirmed: it was simply too early.  Then I realized that in the cold water, the fly might need a little time to get deeper.  The next cast I waited for 5 slow seconds as the bead dragged the fly deeper before beginning the same slow retrieve.  Half way back to shore, I saw the end of the line twitch.  Normally bluegill will hit hard enough that you don't have to wonder but not this one.  It must have just barely touched the fly.  A quick hookset confirmed that a fish was messing with my fly, and it was soon swimming about as bluegill will do, using its flat body to full advantage to feel much larger than it really was.

Landing the fish, I quickly took a picture of the first spring bluegill and sent it back to grow some more.  Several fish later I decided to explore.  Several other stops produced fish as well. 

Heading back towards the car, I told my friend that I wanted to catch a crappie.  There is a spot that usually holds some but a couple guys were fishing it.  I set up nearby, close enough to have a shot but not so close that I crowded them any. 

For the first couple of casts I saw nothing.  Then the third cast produced a follow from a nice little bluegill.  "Slow down," I thought to myself.  Letting the fly sink even more than normal, I began a slow steady retrieve.  A tap on the end of the line brought the required hookset and I was soon staring in wonder at, of all things, a crappie.  I was suprised, more because I don't really catch that many here, meaning I didn't really believe it would happen.  Happily, I got a picture of my catch and was soon headed home, happy to have got a pleasant hour in on the water. 

Catherine McGrath Photograph

Safely Returned

Another epic visit to the Florida Everglades is now history.  The trip was a lot of fun for many reasons including the paddling, lots of wildlife, and yes, even a little fishing.  Things like camping on the beach were definitely a huge plus as well.  I have well over 10 gigabytes of just my own pictures and video to go over, not to mention similar quantities from my friends as well.  Over the next few days I'll be posting pictures, stories, and other tidbits from the trip.

In the meantime, spring appears to be in full swing here in Tennessee.  That means I have lots of tying and fishing to do.  Today I'm heading out for a little while to check on a local bluegill spot.  Check back often over the next serveral days as I provide lots of updates...

Headed Out

I'm out for now but should be back in a week give or take a couple of days.  Tomorrow we leave for the Everglades and while I'm sorry to leave my beloved Smokies, new horizons beckon and the thought of possibly catching a snook or redfish, not to mention a tarpon, has me definitely excited.  Don't miss me too much.  If the lack of posting gets tiresome, just think about the nice warm weather I'll be enjoying along with the novelty of camping on the beach, just a few feet from the Gulf of Mexico. 

Back with pictures in a few...

Last Trout

Today I caught my last trout on the 2011-2012 Tennessee fishing license.  Until our state becomes enlightened and switches to a different system in which a license is good for a year from the purchase date, the end of February will continue to be time for a new license.  After the quick fishing excursion I stopped for a new license.

The fishing was not exactly as I planned.  Upon arriving at the lake, I discovered that a threatened drawdown of the lake level for some bridge repairs had already commenced.  The fish were not going to be in the expected places, but that just makes the game a little more interesting.  Exploring in a couple of new spots brought continued disappointment until just before time to leave.  As I was thinking about heading to the car, I spotted what looked like a rise ring.  Of course, all such things must be investigated.

On the first cast, a nice healthy rainbow nailed my small beadhead simi seal leech and gave the 3 weight I was using a good workout.  Pausing to appreciate the moment, I realized how tranquil the water was and enjoyed the reflection of the forest above.  For the rest of this week, I'll be tying and packing for the Everglades.  For real this time...no more fishing until Florida...

Preparing

We are in the full swing of preparing for yet another Spring Break Trip.  Last year was the epic Grand Canyon adventure (Part One and Part Two) that I would love to be going on again.  This year, however, we decided to return to the Florida Everglades.  That's right!  Another paddle through the mangroves, camping on beaches, and with a little luck, catching some new to me fish species.  We leave in less than a week and this year's paddle will be longer than the last one. 

With that in mind, I will probably be pretty much swamped for the next few days with little to no fishing time.  Expect minimal updates over the next two weeks, but after that I expect to have lots of good stories and pictures as well.  In March, I have a couple of trips lined up to the mountains already so there should be plenty of new material coming...

Hatches

Go fishing now!!!  The first early spring hatches continue to happen pretty much daily over in the Smokies.  Some nice fish have been caught on dry flies for the fishermen willing to work hard and find those wary browns. 

Currently, bugs are hatching from near Townsend to up past Elkmont, but on the warmest days, the hatches are actually coming off pretty early.  Larger fish will be easiest to catch on those days that keep all but the diehards off the water.  Right now, the crowds are heavy on good days meaning you may be fishing used water.  Thankfully, during hatches at least, you can still catch fish even on "used" water.  This is the best time to fish if you are a relative Smokies novice as fly selection can be as simple as tying on a Parachute Adams.  However, closer inspection will often reveal the fish to be taking Blue Quills or Black Caddis in various stages. 

On a recent trip, I found a good hatch early in the day that dwindled to just a few stray bugs by early afternoon.  During the hatch, the dry fly action was fast and furious.  Before moving to another spot, I found a nice brown rising and got it to nail the dry.  The first cast produced one of the most stressful refusals I have ever had as the fish rocketed out of nowhere just beneath the fly only to vanish just as quickly.  The second cast must have been a better drift and a beautiful brown was soon posing for a quick photo.

 

The rainbows are fatter than I ever remember seeing a Smokies trout.  The high water that has kept the tailwaters off limits to wade fishermen has done wonders for the fish in the Park.  The warm winter probably helped as well.  Anyway, I expect the next few months to produce some of the best fishing in the Smokies in the last 10 years.  As soon as the tailwaters become fishable we should see similar epic fishing on them as well.  Get ready for a great fishing year!!!

Coyotes Taking Over!!!

In this hilarious article, TWRA nemesis Frank Niceley accused TWRA of stocking coyotes to try and control the Tennessee deer herd.  Apparently the TWRA assistant executive director thought it was a joke.  The response was classic:

"Actually, we sent some officers over to Arkansas and gave them swimming lessons," he said. "After we taught them, coyotes could swim over the Mississippi River."

I'm always thoroughly amused at people who want huge populations of game species without any natural predators.  Coyotes don't eat many deer to begin with, focusing mostly on much smaller prey.  The extent some people will go to further their agenda is downright laughable.  I'm just glad that Mr. Niceley was shown to be uninformed. Take a moment to read the article for your morning laugh, especially if you are from Tennessee.

Winter Turns To Spring

Rarely can one go hiking and hike to a destination in winter but return in spring. No, I'm not talking about the technicalities of when the calendar says the season has changed, but rather a snowfall so beautiful, so magical, and yet so fleeting, that if it weren't for the pictures I probably would assume the whole experience was just a pleasant dream. 

Hiking in the Smokies is never a guarantee, and in fact, I was not sure on this trip if we would be able to access our preferred trailhead.  Upon discovering the road open we were all excited.  When I found undisturbed snow on the trail, I was ecstatic.  Being the first person through the woods after a fresh snowfall is something I would like to do more often, especially on popular hikes where you will rarely find the trail completely devoid of strangers.

 
Our goal on this day was Ramsey Cascade.  On the previous trip, my friend had a near death experience that could have been a lot worse than it really was.  This time we were hoping for less wind and a safe journey.  The trail ascends through the forest, never far from the nearby Middle Prong of the Little Pigeon River.  At times you can see the stream while at others the trail is high on the hillside above the gorge and the water below is camouflaged behind layers of Smoky Mountain forest.

Before leaving our van, I happened to glance in the side door window and saw a reflection of the magical wintry forest around me. 

Heading on up the trail brought deepening snow yet never too much for pleasant hiking.  The sun started rising above the steep ridges and at times peeked through the trees, the snow sparkling as the sun's rays touched it for the first time.

 
We made good time and even stopped long enough to find the exact same log that hit my friend last April.  We jokingly took a couple of pictures, recalled how thankful we should be, and continued on our way.

Moving higher through the forest, we found the banks of streams cloaked under the new snowfall.  Further up the stream, the sun was now striking the canopy and its blinding light added a bit of mystery to our pictures.

Finally, we reached our destination.  Cold air was still rushing down the gorge and we quickly started to feel the chill.  Standing around after a brisk hike in cold air makes everything seem colder than it really is.  Accordingly we began the return trek much sooner than we would during warmer seasons.

 
Moving back down the mountain was interesting.  The snow was now in full melting mode, both falling off the trees (and usually down the back of my neck) and vanishing from the surface of the forest floor.  By the time we made it back down the Middle Prong proper, only a dusting remained on the shady side of the stream.

Everyone made it back in good time and even better spirits.  We were amazed at our good fortune to hike in such a beautiful place at just the right time!

 

Thanks!!!

I just want to give a shout out to everyone that stopped by Little River Outfitters on Sunday to join me for the fly tying session.  Talking flies and how to fish them are always a lot of fun for me and I specifically want to thank Byron, Paula, and Daniel for having me.  I will likely be heading up to the Park again soon to get in on the early spring hatches.  Things have been amazing already this year from everything I have heard and I can't wait to get in on a good hatch myself.